Get ready to be amazed by this Anti-Atlas road trip in Morocco combining the Atlantic coast, desert landscapes and mountains. This 9-day and 9-night itinerary crosses the Souss-Massa and the Anti-Atlas, with stops in Tafraoute, Amtoudi, Icht and Taroudant.

Along the way, you’ll discover impressive geological formations and granaries perched on rocky peaks. You’ll also cross the Souss-Massa bird reserve and the Ammeln Valley. It’s also an opportunity to discover the warm welcome of the “Chleuh” Berbers of the Anti-Atlas.

This Anti-Atlas road trip starts in Rabat, follows the coast to Imsouane via Oualidia. It then continues toward the Souss-Massa and gradually enters the Anti-Atlas. Finally, the route goes back up to Taroudant and Ouirgane before returning to Rabat.

Overview

Day-by-day itinerary

DAY 0 – Rabat to Oualidia

We leave after work to already cover part of the route to Oualidia. This first stage saves time for the rest of this Morocco road trip.

If you have a little more time, don’t hesitate to stop in El Jadida. Its small Portuguese fortress is worth a look. It is also possible to visit the Portuguese cistern. However, I find the entrance fee exorbitant for a visit of about 10 minutes.

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DAY 1 – OUALIDIA to IMSOUANE

We start the day with a walk on the beach before having breakfast facing the lagoon at Hippocampe. Then, we drive along the coast with several stops.

• Safi, where we visit the medina and the Potters’ Hill ;
• Essaouira, with its medina, windy streets and many art shops. The city is even worth a night if you have time ;
• Sidi Kaouki beach ;
• Imsouane, a fishing village and surf spot.

Where to stay in Imsouane?

We slept at Afer Surf Hostel, a nice hostel with a panoramic terrace. However, the soundproofing was very poor! The rate was 140 MAD per person in a 6-bed dorm.

Another option that had seemed very nice to us is Chez Hafid, a “roots” accommodation located directly on Imsouane beach. However, I doubt it still exists today. Since this article was written, the government has indeed destroyed many accommodations considered “illegal” in Imsouane.

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DAY 2 – Imsouane to Tiznit

After breakfast at the Imsouane fishing port, we enjoy the beach a little longer and watch the surfers from the beach house of Chez Hafid. Then, we hit the road to Tiznit.

What to see on the way to Tiznit

I recommend the following stops along the way:

• the Aghroud fishing port with its troglodyte houses ;
• Oued Massa National Park. From the parking lot (30°03’24.2″N 9°39’16.1″W), you can walk along the oued and observe several birds, including flamingos and bald ibises. The park serves as a refuge for many migratory birds. Don’t forget your binoculars.

At the mouth of the oued there are also several caves where fishermen take up residence at certain times of the year. A guide can help you make the most of the reserve and increase your chances of observing birds and scorpions.

Two animal reserves have also been attached to the park to support the reintroduction of four Saharan antelopes. To visit them, you need to allow more time, be motorized and be accompanied by a guide.

You can contact Lahcen at +212 767-866061, who can arrange transport and a guide if necessary.

We then end the day with a delicious meal in the shade of the fig tree in Tiznit.

Where to stay in Tiznit?

We chose Hôtel des Touristes. It is a very simple hotel with no great charm. However, it is cheap, quiet and located in central Tiznit.

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DAY 3 – Tiznit to Amtoudi

We start the day with breakfast in the Tiznit souk before exploring the small medina, its great mosque, whose architecture recalls that of Timbuktu, and the blue spring.

Around noon, we resume our road trip and finally enter the Anti-Atlas. The landscape changes quickly and the road gradually becomes magnificent.

On the way to Amtoudi

Although the road is the main attraction, some points deserve a stop:

• Kerdous Pass for a coffee break ;
• the Tamazight carpet cooperative and some rock engravings of rifles in Boutrouch. Given the limited number of visitors, the cooperative will probably be closed. Don’t hesitate to ask locals: we asked for help at the village center.

We end the day with a walk around Amtoudi, one of the most beautiful stages of this Anti-Atlas road trip.

Where to stay in Amtoudi?

We stayed at À l’ombre de l’arganier, a very simple accommodation run by Abdellah. He gave us the necessary advice to visit the surroundings.

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DAY 4 – Amtoudi to Icht

The granaries and natural pools of Amtoudi

Following Abdellah’s advice, we set off to visit the two granaries (agadir) of Amtoudi. We then end the walk at the natural pools. This stage is certainly one of the most beautiful discoveries of the trip.

Entirely renovated by Salima Naji and her team, the granaries represent an important part of the Souss-Massa heritage. These small fortresses were used to store grain, jewelry and other valuables. In case of conflict, inhabitants could also take refuge there.

To visit them, you need to call the caretakers. The numbers are indicated on the doors. However, I advise you to ask your guesthouse to notify them of your arrival to make sure you can visit them.

I also advise you to devote a full day to Amtoudi. You can then enjoy the natural pools without rushing, unlike us!

From Tadakoust to Icht

After lunch at Abdellah’s, we get back on the road to Tadakoust. Google does not allow you to route there. To access it, head toward Aït-Ouabelli, then take the road on the left.

Tadakoust is a picturesque village set on the side of four small mountains, one of which is topped by an agadir. It is possible to observe rock engravings there. To find them, ask your accommodation for a guide’s contact details.

We end the day with tea at Mohammed‘s, whom you will probably meet. He worked for more than 40 years in France and enjoys chatting with tourists.

We then get back on the road at nightfall and arrive late in Icht.

Where to stay in Icht?

We slept at Borj Biramane, for 600 MAD for a double bungalow. It was probably one of the most comfortable places in the region. The establishment is run by two very friendly French brothers. When we passed through, the place was deserted, but it is popular with bikers and can accommodate large groups.

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DAY 5 – Icht to Tafraoute

Visiting Icht and reaching Tafraoute

We visit the old town of Icht with Abdellah. Built in rammed earth, this part of the town was gradually abandoned. It has given way to a newer concrete town. This is easier to maintain, but less suited to the climate.

Unlike concrete, earth keeps cool in summer and warmth in winter. As the old town is no longer maintained, it is deteriorating over the torrential rains. You can visit the old town alone. A guide will, however, help you find the entrance. He can also get you into some houses and visit the small mosque.

After this visit, we get back on the road to Tafraoute, amid very beautiful landscapes. We make a first stop at Igmir Smouguen, from where impressive gorges accessible on foot start.

To continue the itinerary, it is advisable to turn right 2 km after Izerbi. After about twenty kilometers, the road descends toward a small hamlet. You then need to turn left toward the Aït Mansour Gorges, where it is possible to hike. I give more information about it in my next article: 15-Day road trip in Morocco: between mountains and Sahara.

After crossing the gorges, the road descends toward the Tafraoute valley. Once on the R107, turn left then quickly right to reach the Painted Rocks. The site offers a surreal spectacle at nightfall.

Where to stay in Tafraoute

We chose Hôtel Saint Antoine, for 400 MAD for a double room with breakfast. The hotel has no particular charm, but it is clean and convenient for staying in Tafraoute. There are also more interesting options around the town, including the one where we stayed the next day.

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DAY 6 – TAFRAOUTE

Tafraoute itself is not very interesting, but the town is a good starting point for exploring the surroundings. We nevertheless take the time to visit the small souk before leaving for the north.

What to see around Tafraoute?

• Tizourgane Kasbah: perched above a hill, this kasbah is very picturesque. It was closed for renovation when we passed ;
• Ammeln Valley: this valley lies at the foot of a mountain range dominated by Jbel Lkest. It is dotted with villages and fields. It can be visited on foot from the traditional house. The Jbel Lkest hike is detailed in my next article: 15-Day road trip in Morocco: between mountains and Sahara.
• Traditional house: this museum is visited with one of the descendants of the house’s inhabitants. It presents the customs and traditions of the Ammeln Valley. It is also possible to stay in the guesthouse of the same name, located right next door.

Where to stay in the Ammeln Valley?

We slept at the Traditional House in Oumesnate, in the Ammeln Valley. The rate was 440 MAD per person half-board. We appreciated the warm welcome, the cleanliness of the accommodation, the terrace with a view of the valley and the good meals.

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DAY 7 – Tafraoute to Taroudant

After breakfast on the terrace, we get back on the road to Taroudant. The day allows you to discover several agadirs and take a short hike before reaching the city.

On the way to Taroudant

• Agadir Tasguent: a magnificent, very well restored agadir with hundreds of niches. You need to look for the caretaker so he can open it for you ;
• Afa Agadir: similar to Tasguent but smaller and in worse condition. It makes a good break to stretch your legs ;
• Citron Valley: an out-and-back hike starts just after Tamguinsift. It follows a beautiful valley to a water spring.

We arrive at the end of the day in Taroudant and cross the city to eat at the El Kasbah complex, outdoors.

Where to stay in Taroudant?

We stayed at Dar Randigaba, for 400 MAD for a double room. The accommodation is run by a very welcoming Moroccan. He enjoys chatting with his guests and can possibly show them around the city. The house is filled with vinyl records and books, which gives it a lot of charm. Some small improvements could be made, particularly in terms of cleanliness, but we really liked the place.

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DAY 8 – Taroudant to Ouirgane

We enjoy the large Taroudant medina, both lively and quiet. It reminds us of Marrakech in its size, climate and proximity to the mountains. Its atmosphere, however, seems different and less oppressive for tourists.

Then, we continue our way along the winding road of the Tizi n’Test Pass. It offers beautiful views of the neighboring mountains before descending toward Ouirgane via the Tinmel Mosque. Remember to check the road conditions and whether it is open in case of snowfall.

Where to stay in Ouirgane?

We slept at Dar Tamonte, for 400 MAD in a double room with breakfast. It is a magnificent hotel full of charm, tastefully decorated, where you eat very well and whose host is adorable.

DAY 9 – OUIRGANE to RABAT

A final hike around Ouirgane

Following our host’s advice, I set off for an early morning hike to the small Assif Zagrawari, perched in the mountains. The path goes through gorges. You can also follow a track to do an 18 km loop with 800 m of elevation gain.

I completed it in less than 3 hours. The route is fairly strenuous and sometimes not obvious. The track goes through the gorges before branching onto the left slope. It is clearly visible on Google Maps satellite view and helps you avoid getting lost.

This final hike marks the end of this Anti-Atlas road trip and of this beautiful stay. If you have more time, don’t hesitate to explore Marrakech, for which I share my tips in this article: What to do in Marrakech: from the medina to the mountains.

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Practical tips for this Anti-Atlas road trip

Duration

I recommend at least 9 days to complete this Anti-Atlas road trip without rushing too much. Even plan a few extra days if you want to include Marrakech and Essaouira in your trip.

Transport

An SUV is recommended for this itinerary. Several stages are far from each other and some access is via secondary roads.

Distance covered

We covered 2051 km starting from Rabat and returning there. However, it is possible to considerably shorten the trip by starting from Marrakech, which is closer to the Anti-Atlas.

Best season

I recommend going from September to early November to enjoy the beautiful light, or from late March to June for spring vegetation. Summer can be very hot, while winter can be wet and cold. I did this itinerary in late October 2020.

External references

This site gives a lot of useful information on itineraries, hikes and places to visit in the Souss-Massa and Anti-Atlas region: Explore Agadir Souss-Massa.

To continue your trip in Morocco

If you have time to explore other regions, also discover my other Morocco guides. After living there for six years, I share with you all my tips to continue discovering the kingdom, between road trips, hikes in mountain ranges, magnificent beaches and city visits.

Find the complete list of my articles devoted to Morocco on this page: Morocco.