The second city of South Korea deserves far more than a quick stop. Busan brings together very different neighborhoods and villages. Each has its own atmosphere. If you are wondering what to do in Busan, there are plenty of options: large beaches, markets, modern neighborhoods, historic villages, temples and mountains.
If you have already explored Seoul, Busan offers a complete change of scenery, especially thanks to the sea. The two cities complement each other well: Seoul offers a view of contemporary and historic South Korea, while Busan reveals a more maritime, popular and contrasted side of the country. If, on the other hand, you have not yet discovered the capital, don’t miss my article: 5 Days in Seoul: Hiking, Architecture, and Culture.
I joined Busan from Hokkaido, Japan, where I had spent a month and whose trip I recount in this article: Best hikes in Hokkaido: complete itinerary (+GPX). There I met up with Ziyi, my friend from Shanghai, for a long weekend. Here are the places I preferred, as well as those I would place lower on the list if your time is limited.
Overview
What to do in Busan?
Nampo
Duration: half a day
A central and lively neighborhood
Nampo is among the most interesting neighborhoods in central Busan. It is also an excellent starting point for discovering the city and one of the first places I would consider when deciding what to do in Busan. This area combines markets, history and viewpoints. You can reach most sites on foot.
The main sites of Nampo
- Busan Modern and Contemporary History Museum : clearly one of my favorite visits in the city. This museum traces the modern history of the city. I notably discovered the history of Amidong. This visit made me want to explore the neighborhood.
- Jagalchi Market : Busan’s large fish market. It impresses as much by the quantity as by the variety of fish sold.
- BIFF Square : the historic heart of the Busan International Film Festival. The neighborhood now hosts restaurants and street food stalls. Look down at your feet to see if you recognize the name of some of the stars.
- Gukje Market : a vast traditional market. You will find clothes, everyday objects, souvenirs but above all food.
- Busan Tower : this observation tower is located in Yongdusan Park. It offers a panoramic view of central Busan. Personally I found the ticket a bit expensive and did not go up. Without going up the tower, the park is not necessarily worth the detour.
Gamcheon Culture Village & Amidong Tombstone Culture Village
Duration: half a day
Gamcheon Culture Village and Amidong Tombstone Culture Village are two former villages built on the hills of southern Busan. Their history is notably linked to the arrival of refugees during the Korean War.
Gamcheon Culture Village
This village has become one of Busan’s postcards thanks to its colorful houses clinging to the hill. The neighborhood is indeed spectacular when observed from outside viewpoints.
However, my experience inside the village was much less convincing. I did not find much interest in walking through the small streets. Moreover, the tourist crowds seem to generate some tensions with residents and we did not really feel welcome.
We therefore left a little unsatisfied.
Amidong Tombstone Culture Village
After our visit to the Busan Modern and Contemporary History Museum, we returned to the same area. Indeed, the museum had sparked our curiosity about the neighboring neighborhood of Amidong.
The contrast struck us immediately. Amidong Tombstone Culture Village still seems relatively preserved from mass tourism. Some residents also welcomed us more warmly.
The history of the neighborhood remains particularly singular. During the Korean War, refugees arriving in Busan settled on the slopes of the city.
Amidong developed on an old Japanese cemetery. After the liberation of Korea, residents reused certain tombstones in constructions. They still appear in the walls and alleys.
The tourist office 아미비석문화마을안내센터 provides maps of the village. Several buildings also welcome visitors.
My opinion on the two villages
Amidong became one of my favorite places in the city. By combining it with the beautiful view of Gamcheon Culture Village, the neighborhoods clearly deserve the detour. If you are wondering what to do in Busan beyond the city’s better-known sights, this combination is one I would recommend.
The neighborhood remains residential. So stay discreet and respect the residents. Also preserve the calm of the place.
Taejongdae & Huinnyeoul Culture Village
Duration: half a day
Taejongdae and its lighthouse
At the southern tip of Busan, Taejongdae occupies a small wooded peninsula. A road closed to cars allows you to walk around it.
The viewpoints remain however fairly rare over a large part of the route. The best view is near the Taejongdae lighthouse. You will have to go down several staircases to reach the seaside, then climb back up.
Along the way, you will pass Taejongsa Temple. The temple notably attracts visitors thanks to its hydrangea garden in July.
Huinnyeoul Culture Village
On the same peninsula, Huinnyeoul Culture Village follows a balcony street above the sea. Cafes and small shops line the route.
The whole is photogenic. Above all, the small figurines installed on the low wall facing the sea were what really caught my attention.
However, I would not place Taejongdae & Huinnyeoul Culture Village among my priorities if your time is limited. If you have to narrow down what to do in Busan, I would therefore visit these sites after the other places presented above.
After several cultural visits, the area nevertheless offers a pleasant break by the sea.
Hike between Beomeosa Temple, Geumjeong Fortress and Seokbulsa Temple
17.12km – 997m ascent and 924m descent – difficulty 4/10(2) – GPX link(1)
Duration: a day
A hike in the heart of the mountains
In the heart of Busan, a vast mountainous area allows you to leave the urban environment. A long hike connects several historic sites.
The route begins at Beomeosa Temple. This Buddhist temple is among the most famous in Busan. It is also one of the main historic temples in the region.
The hike quickly gains height. It then reaches Geumjeong Fortress, a vast fortification built on the mountain ridges around Busan. You will follow the ramparts for a good part of the route. This fortress offers beautiful views of the city.
Seokbulsa Temple and the Lego village
I also did a round trip to the cable car summit. This part does not necessarily offer much interest. It can however be useful if you want to go back down by that means.
The route then heads to Seokbulsa Temple. Its large Buddhist bas-reliefs, carved directly into the rock, are one of the main highlights of the hike.
While descending toward Mandeok Station, you can see from afar the curious village nicknamed the “Lego village” with its houses with differently colored roofs.
Visiting the sites separately
You can also visit the different sites separately. Beomeosa Temple and Seokbulsa Temple remain accessible by public transport.
Seokbulsa however requires an additional walk. The temple is located high up.
Geumjeong Fortress is accessible by cable car. It closes on Mondays.
Haeundae & Songjeong Beach
Duration: half a day to a day
Haeundae Beach
After the markets, villages and hikes, Haeundae & Songjeong Beach allow you to slow down the pace.
The large beach of Haeundae is perfect for strolling. Its three large towers can be seen from many places in the city.
You can enjoy Busan’s maritime atmosphere without planning any particular activity.
The coastal promenade
8.11km – 48m ascent and 53m descent – difficulty 1/10(2) – GPX link(1)
By following the beach northward, you will reach a developed promenade. It follows the former route of the coastal train.
You can take the Haeundae Beach Train. The Haeundae Sky Capsule also offers a miniature version of the journey at height. For my part, I preferred to walk quietly along the coastline.
The wooden path offers beautiful views of Haeundae. A few transparent footbridges above the sea also allow detours.
The route then reaches Songjeong Beach, Busan’s surfers’ haunt. During my visit, a few brave souls were facing the waves. The sea nevertheless looked like a lake.
I ended my walk at Jugdosan, a pretty pavilion visible from the beach. I then took the metro again at Songjeong Station.
This excursion is perfect for slowing down the pace. It also allows you to end the stay without chaining cultural visits or long climbs.
Practical tips
Money
Cash is rarely necessary in Busan: bank cards are accepted almost everywhere, but it remains useful to have some cash for small shops and markets, and it is essential for public transport.
Indeed, for transport, the T-money is very practical. This rechargeable card (3,000 to 5,000 ₩) can be bought and recharged in convenience stores (CU, GS25, 7-Eleven, emart24) with cash only. It is valid in the metro and buses, which are the most efficient ways to get around the city.
Budget
I spent about 65,000 won per day. I ate on the go and slept in a dormitory.
Most of the visits presented here are done on foot or by public transport. You can therefore limit travel expenses.
Duration
Busan easily allows you to spend several days, especially if you want to enjoy the beach.
I nevertheless recommend planning at least two days to discover the essentials of the sites presented in this article.
I would devote one day to the hike between Beomeosa Temple, Geumjeong Fortress and Seokbulsa Temple. The next day, I would set out to discover Nampo, then Gamcheon Culture Village and Amidong Tombstone Culture Village. I would finally end the stay with Haeundae and Songjeong Beach.
If you have more time, add Taejongdae & Huinnyeoul Culture Village. You can also spend a few days at the beach.
Accommodation
For a first visit, I recommend staying around Seomyeon Station. The neighborhood occupies a strategic position. It is at the intersection of Busan metro lines 1 and 2. You will thus easily reach several areas of the city. You will also avoid multiplying connections. Seomyeon is among the liveliest neighborhoods in Busan in the evening. You will find many hotels, restaurants and bars there.
I personally stayed at Lala Vianco Hotel. The establishment offers wooden capsules that close completely. They offer more privacy. They also guarantee almost total darkness for sleeping.
Orientation and transport
The Busan metro and bus network is extremely efficient. You can therefore do entirely without taxis.
The Naver Map application remains the most reliable for foreigners. It works in English and offers precise routes. It also handles connections between metro and bus correctly.
Recommended season
As in the rest of South Korea, the spring and autumn offer the most pleasant conditions for visiting Busan.
Summer is however perfectly suitable if you want to enjoy the beaches. The hydrangea bloom in July also offers an additional reason to discover Taejongsa Temple.
Whatever the season, the diversity of neighborhoods makes it possible to find what to do in Busan according to the weather and your desires.
(1)The GPX tracks mentioned in this article are provided for reference only. They must under no circumstances be followed as an official guide or a safe itinerary. Mountain conditions change constantly and can make a route unsuitable or dangerous.
(2)These ratings reflect my personal experience and the conditions encountered during my hikes, in June and in good weather, sometimes with a few snow patches. Difficulty can however vary depending on the season and weather. If you do not yet know your level, I recommend starting with a few level 1, 2, or even 3 hikes to gauge where you stand before tackling more demanding routes. To understand my rating method in detail, see my article Hiking difficulty scale.
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