With its vast wild spaces, volcanoes, lakes, and mountains, Hokkaido is without a doubt my favorite prefecture in Japan. It represents about 20% of Japan’s territory on its own, but is home to only about 4 to 5% of the country’s population, which largely explains the feeling of space and natural richness found here. I share here a complete 3-week itinerary to discover Hokkaido and its best hikes, accompanied by GPX files.

The itinerary combines hiking, nature discoveries, and cultural visits. If you have less time, one week is already enough to get a first glimpse of Hokkaido by focusing on a single region.

For most hikes, the best period is from June to October, keeping in mind that snowfields may still remain at high altitudes until early July.

Overview

Day-by-day itinerary

Day 0 – Aomori

Before reaching Hokkaido, I had just completed what I consider to be one of the most beautiful long-distance hikes in Japan, which you can read about here: Michinoku Coastal Trail north: 10 days between Iwate and Aomori. It ends in Hachinohe, just a few dozen kilometers from Aomori, the northernmost city in Japan, accessible by Shinkansen from Tokyo.

It makes an excellent gateway to the island. Indeed, it is possible to reach Hokkaido in both an economical and original way by taking the ferry to Hakodate.

So I will start this itinerary dedicated to the best hikes in Hokkaido with this short stop in Aomori.

What to do in Aomori?

I recommend at least one full day to explore the city.

Among the must-see visits are Nebuta Warasse and the Sannai Maruyama site.

The Nebuta Matsuri is one of Japan’s most famous festivals. Every summer, huge illuminated floats depicting historical or mythological figures parade through the streets. The Nebuta Warasse museum therefore allows you to admire these impressive creations all year round.

The reconstructed village of Sannai Maruyama offers a fascinating dive into the Jōmon period, several thousand years before our era. Its museum displays some fascinating pieces from that time.

Adjacent to it is the Aomori Prefectural Art Museum, which, as long as you are in the area, is also worth a visit. It is interesting to start with the art museum because its ticket provides a slightly better discount for visiting the archaeological site.

Other interesting visits

• Shōtoku Park: a pleasant seaside walk offering beautiful views of the bay and surrounding coasts.
• Aomori History Museum: an interesting museum to discover the history and culture of the region. Many explanations are in English. Its main drawback is its distance from the city center.
• Aomori Forestry Museum: a beautiful historic building that alone is worth the detour. The exhibition is accessible at a low price, but the explanations in English are unfortunately very limited.
• Seikan Train Ferry Memorial Ship Hakkōda-maru: despite the limited information available in English, visiting this former railway ferry remains interesting. It once served the link between Honshu and Hokkaido before the construction of the Seikan Tunnel. Even without going on board, it is possible to observe from the outside the rails that led directly to the ship.

Where to eat in Aomori?

• Menya Kinsei: I ate here every evening because the value for money is excellent. The spicy ramen was delicious, the prices very affordable, and the two owners particularly welcoming. It is possible to ask for a meat-free dish, but the broth still contains some.
• Café Marron: a pleasant spot for a coffee and pastry break. The prices are a bit high, but the warm atmosphere and comfortable setting make it an excellent refuge when the weather is gloomy.

Where to stay in Aomori?

I stayed at the Aomori Green Park Hotel, a simple but affordable establishment with very warm staff.

If you have an extra day

If you have an extra day, the city of Hirosaki is an excellent excursion from Aomori.

• Hirosaki Castle: a beautiful little castle, located in a vast park renowned for its cherry blossoms in spring.
• Fujita Memorial Garden: a superb Japanese landscape garden that was one of the highlights of my visit to Hirosaki.
• Hirosaki Botanical Garden: relatively disappointing compared to the city’s other sites. It was included in a combination ticket with the previous two visits.
• Tsugaru-han Neputa-mura: an interesting place to discover the traditional crafts of the Tōhoku region. You can observe craftsmen making wooden tops and kokeshi dolls, two emblematic specialties of the region. It is also a good introduction to the Hirosaki Neputa festival culture.

Day 1 – Hakodate

Hakodate is one of my favorites of this itinerary. I arrived in the city around noon, after the ferry crossing, and only had the afternoon to visit.

What to visit in Hakodate?

I start with Goryōkaku, a star-shaped fortress built at the end of the Tokugawa shogunate. Now a park, the site is particularly pleasant in spring when the trees are in bloom.

I then head to the city center to drop off my things at the hotel before going to explore Motomachi, the historic district.

I particularly recommend the following visits in the historic Motomachi district:

• Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses: former port warehouses converted into a shopping and dining complex;
• The former British Consulate of Hakodate;
• The Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward: one of the city’s most emblematic buildings;
• Hakodate Orthodox Church.

Hakodate and Japan’s opening to the world
For over two centuries, Japan practiced a policy of almost total isolation. However, everything changed in the mid-19th century when Western powers obtained the gradual opening of several ports.
Like Nagasaki and Yokohama, Hakodate was one of the first cities opened to international trade. This shared history explains the presence of unusual Western architecture in Japan: former diplomatic residences, Christian churches, administrative buildings, and commercial warehouses.
Travelers who have already visited Nagasaki will find a familiar atmosphere here. I also talk about it in my article dedicated to my Kyushu itinerary: Kyushu Road Trip: Complete 9-Day Itinerary

Continuing from the historic district, you can also discover:

• Hakodate Park: a pleasant green space offering a welcome break away from the hustle and bustle of the center.
• Hakodate Hachimangū Shrine: a very pretty, quiet, and uncrowded shrine, away from the main tourist routes.
• Cape Tachimachi: a superb viewpoint over the cliffs plunging into the ocean, particularly enjoyable in good weather.

Hike up Mount Hakodate

16.77km – 533m ascent and 533m descent – difficulty 4/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

After Motomachi, I highly recommend taking one of the many hiking trails that lead to Mount Hakodate rather than taking the ropeway directly. The mountain is crisscrossed by pleasant paths, offers magnificent views of the sea, and is home to many uncrowded historical remains.

I planned my hike to arrive at the summit at sunset to admire the famous Hakodate night view, considered one of the three most beautiful in Japan. The panorama is indeed magnificent, but I advise against watching the sunset from the main ropeway platform. Even off-season, the crowds were very heavy. I had several rows of visitors in front of me. In my opinion, it is better to either go up earlier in the day or wait for the crowd to disperse after sunset.

This visit is without a doubt my favorite urban hike of this itinerary in Hokkaido. The GPX track starts from Hakodate Station, goes through Motomachi and Cape Tachimachi before completing the loop up Mount Hakodate.

Day 2 – Onuma Quasi National Park and Lake Toya

For this second day, I had initially planned to start with the Hakodate morning market. Ultimately, after taking a little too long over breakfast, I headed straight to the station to take the train to Onuma Quasi National Park.

Getting to Onuma Quasi National Park by train:
If you are using public transport, the local Hakodate Line takes only about ten minutes longer than the express Hokuto trains while costing about 1,000 yen less. However, departures are less frequent. It is therefore advisable to check the schedules in advance.

Discovering Onuma Quasi National Park

5.50km – 31m ascent and 31m descent – difficulty 1/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

Located at the foot of the Komagatake volcano, Onuma Quasi National Park is one of the most beautiful natural areas for easy hikes in southern Hokkaido. From the station, several short trails allow you to enjoy magnificent panoramas over the lakes and the volcano.

Moreover, the tourist information center nearby gives out free detailed maps of the various walks. They have lockers where you can leave your bag. I highly recommend stopping by.

After completing all the fairly short recommended trails, I chose to walk the entire way around the lake, which I do not recommend. Indeed, the views are quite limited over a large part of the route.

The GPX track combines the three short hikes accessible from the station.

Can you climb Mount Komagatake?

It is also possible to climb Mount Komagatake between June 1st and October 31st.

During my visit, on May 31st, access was still closed. The start seems to be near the sixth station parking lot, but I advise you to confirm the information directly with the tourist office. Without a car, access seems relatively complicated.

Arrival at Lake Toya

I then take the train to Lake Toya, an essential stop in southern Hokkaido and the starting point for several hikes. I drop my bags for three nights in the hot spring resort of Toyako Onsen.

As soon as I arrive, I go for a walk along the landscaped shores of the lake. Several contemporary sculptures punctuate the walk pleasantly and contribute to the peaceful atmosphere of the place.

Furthermore, between May and October, fireworks are launched every evening between 8:45 PM and 9:05 PM. Without being exceptional, they are worth stepping out of your hotel if you are staying nearby.

For accommodation, I chose Lac Toya BLDG, a spacious and economical apartment, especially if you stay a few nights. After several weeks of traveling, I appreciate being able to cook myself.

Day 3 – Lake Toya and Mount Usu

I start the day with a visit to the tourist information center located at Toyako Onsen station. This stop is very useful for getting the latest information to explore the area. I notably obtained several discount coupons for the boat and the ropeway.

Hike on Mount Usu and traces of the 2000 eruption

15.50km – 388m ascent and 839m descent – difficulty 3/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

To save time and avoid an unnecessary round trip, I first take the bus and then the ropeway to reach the heights of the volcano.

Before even going up, take a few minutes to observe Mount Showa Shinzan, a volcano that appeared during an eruption in 1943, from which fumaroles still escape.

The majority of visitors stick to the short panoramic walk around the upper ropeway station. If the weather is favorable, the views over Lake Toya are already magnificent. For my part, I continue the excursion along the impressive Ginnuma crater.

Instead of turning back, I continue my hike via the Mount Usu Climbing Route, which is the only footpath allowing access to the summit. The route mainly goes through the forest, but remains pleasant and uncrowded.

Once I came back down, I circled the mountain via some quiet roads to reach the Nishi-Yama Crater Walking Trail, then the Konpira-yama Walking Trail, which gradually brought me back to Toyako Onsen.

These last two walks are particularly worth the detour. They allow you to closely observe the traces left by the spectacular eruption of Mount Usu in 2000. Several damaged infrastructures have been preserved on site: a deformed road, a playground, a factory, a building, an onsen, and several houses. It is fascinating to see the power of the eruption in the gutted buildings, the raised pavements, and the volcanic flows that crossed some urban areas. This section concludes one of the most complete hikes in Hokkaido, combining panoramas, geology, and history.

Excursion to Nakajima Island

8.46km – 190m ascent and 190m descent – difficulty 3/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

Having completed this hike at a brisk pace, I then continued my day by taking the boat to Nakajima, the island located in the center of Lake Tōya. I did the pleasant loop around the island, between forest, lake viewpoints, and a peaceful atmosphere.

Combining this excursion with the hikes around Mount Usu on the same day remains relatively strenuous. It might be wise to spread these activities over two days.

If you have to choose, I would however recommend favoring the hikes around Mount Usu. Between the volcanic panoramas, the ascent to the summit, and the impressive remains of the 2000 eruption, this experience seemed significantly more striking to me than the walk on Nakajima.

Pay attention to trail hours
Several trails in the area close relatively early. During my visit, the loop around Nakajima was theoretically no longer accessible when arriving around 2:30 PM, and I think the crossing to the island loses much of its interest if you cannot do this walk. The historic trails of Konpira-yama (and probably also those of Nishi-yama) closed at 4 PM.

Day 4 – Mount Yotei

20.08km – 1787m ascent and 1759m descent – difficulty 8/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

Nicknamed the “Fuji of Hokkaido” because of its almost perfectly conical silhouette, Mount Yōtei is one of the most emblematic peaks on the island. Its ascent is a great adventure for hikers in good physical condition.

The trail climbs steadily but is generally in good condition. Near the summit, several rocky sections make the ascent more technical and, in June, a few small snowfields remained. Four paths, more or less aligned with the four cardinal points, allow access to the summit. For my part, I went up via the south side from Makkari and, seeing that I was well ahead of schedule, I came down via the west side towards Hirafu (Omagari bus stop). The two trails are comparable in difficulty. I took the opportunity to make a detour via Lake Hangetsu, which offers a nice view of the mountain.

It is possible to stay near the summit in the mountain hut, information available here.

How to get to Mount Yotei by public transport?

At the tourist office, I was told that it was not possible to do the ascent from Lake Tōya by public transport. However, by studying the bus schedules, I found that by leaving early in the morning, it was possible to have a window of 7 to 8 hours on site. The signs indicate about 10 hours for the round trip, which makes the excursion particularly sporty, but entirely feasible if you know your pace well and are willing to turn back in case of delay.

Bus reservation
Like several buses in Hokkaido, the bus connecting Toyako Onsen, Rusutsu, and Sapporo must be reserved in advance. Information on the line is available on the Donan Bus website and reservations are made via Willer Travel. The English version of the site doesn’t work well, I recommend using the Japanese version with your browser’s automatic translation and searching for stops in Japanese. It requires a bit of tinkering but works. Otherwise, your accommodation or the tourist office will surely be able to help you make the reservation.

Day 5 & 6 – Lake Shikotsu area, Mount Tarumae and Mount Fuppushi

I did this stage as a long day trip from Sapporo, after renting a car. The program included a museum visit, a Buddha, a stop at Lake Shikotsu, and the ascent of Mount Tarumae and Mount Fuppushi.

In hindsight, I recommend spending two days in this area, as the hiking possibilities are numerous. This is indeed the option I have retained for this itinerary. If you already have a vehicle, staying on site is probably the most comfortable solution. Otherwise, it’s easy to rent a car in Sapporo before heading to the area.

Without a car, this stage becomes particularly complicated. During my research, there didn’t seem to be a simple solution to access the main trailheads by public transport.

Hike of Mount Tarumae and Mount Fuppushi

13.24km – 994m ascent and 994m descent – difficulty 6/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

This loop is without hesitation among my favorite hikes in Hokkaido. Mount Tarumae is an active volcano whose summit is occupied by an impressive lava dome from which fumaroles still escape. Mount Fuppushi, much less frequented, offers views overlooking the volcanic cone of Mount Tarumae, Lake Shikotsu, and the surrounding peaks.

Following the latest bear information received from the Shikotsu tourist information center, I defined my route and drove to the Mount Tarumae 7th station parking lot, the classic starting point for the hike.

Be careful, this parking lot is very busy on weekends and during holidays. I therefore recommend arriving early to avoid queuing. Failing that, it is possible to park a bit lower (here) and then walk the remaining 2.6 kilometers or, as I did, try hitchhiking.

The trail is then in excellent condition up to the rim of the Mount Tarumae crater, which can be circled via a pleasant panoramic loop.

Rather than doing the complete loop around the volcano, I branched off to do a round trip to the summit of Mount Fuppushi. To access it, the difficulty increases significantly. The trail becomes steeper and some sections are equipped with ropes to aid progression.

A trail allows you to return to the starting point without going back over Mount Tarumae.

For hikers who stop at Mount Tarumae, the hike remains relatively accessible.

Other hikes around Lake Shikotsu

On the other side of Lake Shikotsu is Mount Eniwa, another particularly popular hike in the region.

Due to lack of time, I was unable to do it. If you have two days on site, this ascent is probably worth adding to the program.

Return to Sapporo

On the way back to Sapporo, several stops are worth the detour.

I particularly recommend a stop at Shikotsu Onsen, which offers beautiful views of the blue waters of the lake.

The spectacular Hill of the Buddha, designed by architect Tadao Ando, is also an interesting visit. Very popular with visitors, the site houses a huge Buddha statue surrounded by lavender fields as well as replicas of the famous Moai from Easter Island and Stonehenge.

Finally, the Ainu cultural center is only a small detour. If this is a subject that interests you, I think the visit can be interesting to discover the history of the indigenous people of Hokkaido. Personally, I was a bit disappointed.

Day 7, 8 & 9 – Sapporo & Otaru

After these hikes, three nights in Hokkaido’s largest city offer a welcome urban break. The island’s capital may not have the historic charm of Hakodate, but it is a pleasant base and rich enough to fill two full days.

City center and lively districts

The discovery of Sapporo naturally begins around Odori Park, the city’s true backbone. You’ll find the Sapporo TV Tower, the Clock Tower, which is worth a detour despite its modest size, as well as the Sapporo Shiryokan, a former administrative building whose exterior is probably more interesting than the small free exhibition it houses.

In the evening, I recommend strolling along Tanukikoji Shopping Street and then through the lively Susukino district, which is particularly pleasant when the signs light up. This is also where the touristy Ramen Alley is located, where you can taste one of the local specialties.

Culture and museums

The Hokkaido Museum of Modern Art left me with a mixed impression, mainly because of the temporary exhibitions on display during my visit. Fortunately, the combined ticket also includes the Hokkaido Prefectural Migishi Kotaro Museum, dedicated to the artist Migishi Kotaro. More modest, this museum nevertheless seemed much more interesting to me.

Another popular visit, a bit out of the way, is the Sapporo Beer Museum, which traces the history of one of Japan’s most emblematic brands. The free exhibition is relatively short and pleasant to browse, without being an absolute must-see.

Mount Moiwa

5.87km – 506m ascent and 413m descent – difficulty 3/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

Mount Moiwa deserves its own half-day, or even a full evening if you want to enjoy the sunset over the city. A trail allows you to reach the summit on foot, and although the climb is steep in places, the path is well maintained. The effort is largely rewarded by the open views over Sapporo and the surrounding mountains.

For those who prefer to save their legs for the rest of the hikes in Hokkaido, a ropeway makes it easy to reach the summit.

My GPX track traces the ascent via the most used north-western path, and descends via a little-used south-eastern trail.

Nature and green spaces

Even in the heart of the island’s largest city, it’s easy to get back to nature. The Hokkaido Jingu, the main Shinto shrine in the region, offers a particularly pleasant setting within a vast wooded area. Right next door, the Maruyama Primeval Forest allows you to extend the walk in a wilder environment without leaving the city.

Finally, if you have a little extra time, the Toyohira River Green Space and Nakajima Park are pleasant places to walk, run, or simply enjoy a green space.

Otaru

Otaru, accessible as a day trip from Sapporo, is, in my opinion, culturally more interesting than its neighbor. Considered the Wall Street of northern Japan in its time, it possesses significant historical heritage.

Besides the touristy spots, like the Otaru Canal, Sakaimachi street, the Otaru Music Box Museum (more of a huge store than a museum, but truly magical, especially its floor dedicated to exceptional pieces), or LeTAO and its famous cheesecake (good but I’m not a fan of the place), I recommend spending time at a few museums that constitute, in my opinion, the city’s true interest:

• Bank of Japan Otaru Museum: a free museum that helps you better understand the major economic role Otaru played when the city was one of northern Japan’s main financial centers.
• House of Western Art: a beautiful collection of Art Deco furniture, lighting, and objects presented in former warehouses.
• Otaru Ukiyo-e Museum: a very nice museum dedicated to Japanese prints. The collection is of high quality and the room dedicated to Shunga works, reserved for those over 18, is rather surprising.
• Nitori Museum of Art: probably my favorite of the complex, notably thanks to its remarkable collection of stained glass made using a particularly refined technique.
• Church of England Stained Glass Museum: another museum dedicated to stained glass, housed in a former church, with several pieces of great quality.
• Former Mitsui Bank (Otaru Branch): a historic former bank whose highlight is the immersive projection on the ceiling of the old main hall.

These last five museums are part of the Otaru Art Base complex (official website). The combined ticket represents a certain budget, but the museums complement each other well and are generally worth the visit.

Accommodation in Sapporo

I stayed in three different hostels. Grand Hostel LDK Sapporo (official website) is my favorite of the three. The establishment offers a good balance of comfort, atmosphere, and location, with a large common area on the tenth floor that is particularly pleasant for relaxing, working, or chatting with other travelers.

If you’re looking for more budget-friendly options, HOTEL PLUS HOSTEL in the heart of Susukino and Ten to Ten Hostel, near the station, are also good solutions.

Getting to Asahikawa

To get a head start, I recommend heading to Asahikawa in the late afternoon and spending the night near the station. This allows you to get to Asahidake early the next morning and make the most of the day.

Day 10 – Mount Asahi

14.02km – 1220m ascent and 1220m descent – difficulty 7/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

Asahidake (Mount Asahi) is the highest point in Hokkaido at 2,291 meters above sea level. It is an active volcano and an essential stop in Hokkaido for hiking enthusiasts.

It is possible to reach the heights via the ropeway (3,500 yen round trip in June 2026), then walk the last few kilometers to the summit. This option already represents a relatively demanding hike. For my part, I chose to start directly on foot from the base of the ropeway.

In early June, the mountain is still largely snow-covered. About 80% of the ascent to the upper ropeway station is on snow. Some people were even coming down on skis or sleds. Fortunately, the slopes remain moderate and I didn’t need crampons for the ascent. Note that this part of the mountain is frequented by bears; it is therefore important to take precautions, notably detailed in the practical tips below.

Once the ropeway summit is reached, the crowds increase and the snow becomes much less present. Even without reaching the top, the landscapes are already remarkable: small ponds of an intense blue emerge amidst the snowfields while the volcano’s fumaroles rise in the background, creating a particularly spectacular contrast.

From the summit, the view extends to the surrounding mountains, notably Tokachidake and its plume of smoke.

Early June being still too early in the season, the complete loop was impassable due to snow and I had to turn back. For the descent, small crampons proved useful on the snowy sections below the ropeway.

Accommodation at Asahidake

I stayed at K’s House Hokkaido Asahidake Onsen Hostel (official website), one of the few relatively affordable options in the area. The rate is a bit high for a dormitory, but affordable alternatives seem rare around Asahidake.

It has a good communal kitchen and a pleasant onsen to recover after a day of hiking. The dormitories do not have individual showers: all residents therefore use the communal baths.

Day 11 & 12 – Abashiri

I headed to Asahikawa airport in the morning, where I picked up a rental car for the rest of the trip. While Abashiri is easily accessible by train, a car greatly simplifies exploring eastern Hokkaido and accessing trailheads.

Despite particularly gloomy weather, I took advantage of the journey to discover the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk between Monbetsu and Abashiri. The road successively hugs Lakes Saroma and Notoro, with a favorite for Cape Notoro Misaki, whose cliffs offer beautiful views of the wild coast.

I arrived in Abashiri in the early evening. A quick tour of the city center, however, did not convince me. The town serves primarily as a base for exploring the region rather than a destination in itself.

Abashiri’s museums

The morning of the following day was mainly devoted to the three major museums located southwest of the city. All three rank among my best cultural surprises of the trip.

The most famous is undoubtedly the Abashiri Prison Museum. Housed in several historic buildings relocated to the site, it traces the history of the colonization of Hokkaido during the Meiji era and the role played by prisoners in building the island’s infrastructure. The museum is fascinating, and the architecture of one of the main buildings is said to have been copied from a Belgian prison. Plan for at least two hours of visiting time.

The Museum of Northern Peoples adopts an original approach by highlighting the cultural ties between the different peoples living in the Arctic and subarctic regions. A free English audio guide of about thirty minutes makes it easy to follow the exhibition. Several documentaries complement the visit, and it’s easy to spend more than an hour there.

Finally, the Drift Ice Museum explains the formation of sea ice in the Sea of Okhotsk, a particularly surprising phenomenon at such a southern latitude. The explanations of its role in the marine ecosystem are short but very well done. This museum also houses a few specimens of Clione, also known as the “sea angel,” a small creature that has become emblematic of the region. The main attraction, however, remains the cold room at -15°C, which allows you to concretely discover the winter conditions of the Sea of Okhotsk through a fun experience. An observation deck completes the visit and sometimes offers a view of the ice sheet in winter.

Road to Shiretoko

After this cultural interlude, I hit the road towards Shiretoko.

Several stops are worth the detour along the way. I particularly recommend the Koshimizu Genseikaen nature area, located between Lake Tofutsu and the Sea of Okhotsk, as well as the Road to Heaven (Tengoku e Tsuzuku Michi), a long straight road that seems to disappear into the horizon.

The coast then becomes increasingly spectacular as you approach the peninsula. The impressive Oshinkoshin Falls, easily accessible via a built staircase, are one of the most popular stops in the region.

Accommodation near Rausu

Rather than changing accommodation between Utoro and Rausu, I preferred to book two nights at the same place and do the drives by car. This solution seemed more convenient and saved me from repacking my bags.

I therefore headed to Rausu by crossing the spectacular Shiretoko Pass, which seems to open from June 1st. Unfortunately, during my crossing, thick fog severely limited visibility.

I stayed at Bear Elephant, a simple address I recommend. The accommodation is clean, spacious, economical, and conveniently located near the Rausu Visitor Center.

Day 13 & 14 – Shiretoko

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Shiretoko peninsula is one of the wildest regions in Japan. Between steep mountains, wind-beaten cliffs, brown bears, and exceptional marine wildlife, it is one of the highlights of any trip to Hokkaido.

However, my stay did not start under the best auspices. The whale and orca watching cruise I had booked was canceled due to bad weather, and most hiking trails were still closed following the fatal attack of a hiker by a bear in 2025. With particularly gloomy weather, I had to revise a good part of my program.

Fortunately, this stage ended up becoming one of the most beautiful memories of my trip.

The five lakes of Shiretoko

I started by discovering the famous Shiretoko Five Lakes area. During my visit, only the boardwalk was accessible. This short walk allows you to observe one of the lakes and normally offers beautiful views of the peninsula’s mountains. Unfortunately, the clouds almost completely obscured the landscape.

It is also possible to do a longer circuit accompanied by a guide to access the other lakes. However, booking is mandatory and the price is relatively high.

Furepe Waterfall

3.08km – 78m ascent and 78m descent – difficulty 1/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

Among the easy walks on the peninsula, the one leading to Furepe Waterfall is well worth the detour.

The trail allows you to observe Ezo deer. At the end of the path, a viewpoint allows you to admire the upper part of this spectacular waterfall, which plunges directly into the Sea of Okhotsk from the coastal cliffs.

Aidomari & Seseki Onsen

After several hours spent under the clouds, I returned to the Rausu side and almost accidentally discovered a nice surprise: Aidomari Onsen, located at the end of the coastal road.

It is a simple rotenburo, an open-air hot spring bath set by the sea. The spot offers open views of the ocean and the Russian islands.

I also passed by Seseki Onsen, consisting of two pools in the sea, however I think you need to come when it’s calm and at low tide for the water to be warm.

The Kuril Islands: an ongoing story
From the east coast of Shiretoko, it is possible to see several islands belonging to the Kuril archipelago. These territories are at the heart of a territorial dispute between Japan and Russia since the end of World War II. Occupied by the Soviet Union in 1945 and then integrated into Russia, several islands are still claimed by Japan under the name “Northern Territories.”

Observing orcas from the coast

After this bath, which honestly made my day, I thought I could head back to the hotel without feeling shortchanged. However, on the way back to Rausu, I noticed a sign indicating a whale-watching point. The small Kujiranomieruoka Park freely provides binoculars to visitors. Without much hope, I decided to scan the horizon.

A few seconds later, I spotted a fin. Then a second. Then several more.

Thanks to the excellent quality of the binoculars, I could clearly distinguish the white patches characteristic of orcas. For over half an hour, I observed several groups moving offshore in the sunset light.

I don’t know if the late hour and the calm after the storm improved my chances, but this impromptu sighting will remain one of my fondest memories of the trip.

Whale and orca watching cruise

The next morning, a spot opened up on the cruise. What luck!

After a few dozen minutes, a few groups of orcas and fin whales appeared, the second largest mammal in the world after the blue whale. With the mountains of Shiretoko finally clear in the background, the spectacle was simply exceptional.

I did this tour with Shiretoko Nature Cruise, whose official website (https://www.e-shiretoko.com) is also available in English. However, do not expect to receive explanations in English. The organization seemed very professional to me, and the crew particularly respectful of the animals observed.

That said, I have the impression that most companies in Rausu offer very similar services at comparable prices. They communicate with each other to share information regarding the location of whales and orcas, which maximizes the chances of observation regardless of the agency chosen.

Mount Erei hike

5.54km – 465m ascent and 465m descent – difficulty 3/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

The weather finally being favorable, I then set off to explore Mount Erei, one of the hikes recommended by the visitor center.

The trail starts near a school and gradually rises through a dense forest before reaching a small lake and then the summit.

Although the hike is pleasant, I find the views to be quite limited compared to some of the other hikes I did in Hokkaido. It nevertheless remains a good option when the most renowned trails on the peninsula are closed.

Tatni Trail

2.76km – 149m ascent and 149m descent – difficulty 2/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

I then continued with the Tatni Trail, which starts near the Kunashiri Observatory renowned for whale watching.

The trail crosses several ecosystems characteristic of the peninsula and allows you to discover a beautiful diversity of natural landscapes. However, it does not offer viewpoints.

Day 15 – Lakes Kussharo & Mashū

After the wild mountains of Shiretoko, I headed to Akan Mashu National Park, a park centered around several calderas, immense depressions formed by the collapse of a volcano after a major eruption. These geological phenomena gave birth to several of Japan’s most spectacular lakes, including the famous Lakes Mashu, Kussharo, and Akan.

Lake Mashu and Mount Kamuinupuri hike

14.65km – 645m ascent and 645m descent – difficulty 4/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

I started with Lake Mashu, often presented as the clearest lake in Japan. The almost complete absence of tributaries and outlets helps preserve the extraordinary purity of its waters.

From Observatory No. 1, a superb hike follows the edge of the caldera before reaching Mount Kamuinupuri, whose name means “mountain of the gods” in the Ainu language.

The trail is generally excellent and offers open views for a large part of the route. The final section becomes steeper and includes a few dizzying passages that require a minimum of attention.

After returning to the main observatory, I continued along the road to Observatory No. 3, which offers a different perspective on the lake and also allows you to see Lake Kussharo in clear weather.

Mount Io and the Tsutsujigahara trail

6.11km – 80m ascent and 80m descent – difficulty 1/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

I then headed to the Kawayu Visitor Center, the starting point of one of the most beautiful easy hikes in Hokkaido: the Tsutsujigahara nature trail.

This almost flat trail crosses several ecosystems characteristic of the region’s volcanic zones. As you walk, the vegetation gradually evolves before giving way to the mineral landscapes surrounding the spectacular Mount Io.

This gradual approach allows you to fully appreciate the arrival at the volcano, whose fumaroles release significant amounts of sulfur.

If you are short on time or energy, it is also possible to reach Mount Io directly by car.

Sunayu and the rotenburos of Lake Kussharo

I continued my visit towards Lake Kussharo. After a quick stop at Sunayu, where you just have to dig in the sand to reveal hot water, I ended the day at two of the three free rotenburos on the lake: Ikeno-yu and Kotan Onsen. Both offer an exceptional setting by the water.

Observing the Unkai, the sea of clouds

The Akan Mashu region is known for its Unkai, a “sea of clouds” that forms when the caldera fills with fog, especially at sunrise between May and July, and more rarely in early winter. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the courage to get up early enough to observe it.

Accommodation near Lake Kussharo

I stayed two nights at Kussharo Genya Youth Guesthouse (https://www.gogogenya.com), a rather unusual youth hostel that I recommend. While the bathrooms could be a little better maintained, the atmosphere is friendly, the staff is particularly welcoming, and the meals served on site are excellent, with vegetarian options available. All for a very reasonable price.

Day 16 – Lake Akan & Onneto

This day is one of the busiest of the itinerary. It combines several hours of driving and four hikes. This implies an early start and a sustained pace. If you prefer to take your time, I recommend adding an extra day or selecting only one or two of the hikes presented below.

Wakoto Peninsula

3.24km – 83m ascent and 83m descent – difficulty 1/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

I started the day with a final walk around Lake Kussharo.

An easy trail goes around the small Wakoto Peninsula starting from the Wakoto Onsen rotenburo, whose water was a bit too hot for my taste. The path crosses an active volcanic area where several fumaroles escape directly from the ground or the lake’s edge.

The hike is short but pleasant and serves as an excellent introduction to the region’s geological peculiarities.

Mount Oakan hike

12.14km – 1024m ascent and 1024m descent – difficulty 5/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

I then continued towards Lake Akan, the starting point for the ascent of Mount Oakan.

The trailhead runs alongside several small turquoise lakes that are absolutely magnificent. The trail then goes into the forest and becomes progressively steeper. Some sections can be slippery and occasionally require using your hands to navigate roots or tree trunks.

The slope eases near the summit, which offers nice views of the surrounding lakes and mountains, without being one of my favorite hikes in Hokkaido.

Akanko Onsen, Ainu culture, and mud volcanoes

1.62km – 16m ascent and 16m descent – difficulty 1/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

I then made a stop at Akanko Onsen, a village known for its Ainu craftsmanship. However, the whole thing gave me the impression of a rather touristy and somewhat outdated staging, although my visit was too brief to allow me to make a definitive judgment.

A short walk leads to several small mud volcanoes as well as some viewpoints over Lake Akan, where you can sometimes see local fishermen in action. The walk is pleasant but clearly not among my favorites of the trip.

If I were to do it again, I would skip this stop and enjoy the other places more.

Lake Onneto and Onneto Falls

6.78km – 119m ascent and 119m descent – difficulty 1/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

I continued towards the superb Lake Onneto. An easy trail goes around the lake while offering beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. It is also from this area that the ascent of Mount Meakan begins, often cited as one of the most beautiful hikes in Hokkaido. Unfortunately, during my visit, the trail was closed due to significant volcanic activity.

I continued my hike via a wide, easy track towards the Onneto Falls, which turned out to be an excellent surprise. Fed by hot springs, they display particularly original colors and mineral formations. I had never seen a comparable waterfall elsewhere.

A region that deserves more time

This day confirmed just how rich the Akan Mashu region is in hiking and discovery opportunities. With more time, I could easily have spent two additional days there, as the options are numerous.

Chapel on the Water and the Unkai of Tomamu

I finally ended the day with several hours of driving west towards Tomamu.

On the way, I made a detour to the famous Chapel on the Water, one of architect Tadao Ando’s best-known works. This magnificent chapel, open only early in the morning and late in the evening, is without hesitation worth a stop.

The site is part of a vast hotel complex whose skyscrapers in the middle of the countryside are surprising. Upon further inquiry, I discovered that one of its main attractions is observing the Unkai, the famous sea of clouds. A ropeway opens very early in the morning to allow visitors to access one of Japan’s most renowned viewpoints for this phenomenon.

Day 17 & 18 – Furano, Biei & Mount Tokachi

This new stage is once again particularly packed. Between the Mount Tokachi hike, discovering the countryside of Biei and Furano, and the long drive back up north, the kilometers add up quickly.

Mount Tokachi hike

18.77km – 1506m ascent and 1506m descent – difficulty 9/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

I left early towards Mount Tokachi, one of the most active volcanoes in Hokkaido.

As I approached the trailhead, I stopped by the side of the road to observe the impressive plume of smoke rising from the summit, which was slightly intimidating. I also encountered some beautiful foxes.

I opted for a loop that turned out to be one of the most demanding, but also one of the most beautiful hikes in Hokkaido.

The trail starts on a busy wide path before branching off onto a much wilder trail where I quickly found myself alone. Fortunately, the landscapes remain very open, which allows you to maintain good visibility on the surroundings in case of a bear encounter.

In mid-June, several snowfields still remained at altitude. I was particularly glad I had brought small crampons, as some sections were both steep and slippery.

After a navigation error that made me miss the junction towards Mount Biei, I finally found the route on the ridges. The reward was immediate: the panoramas of the volcano became spectacular, and the fumaroles gradually appeared as we approached the summit.

The trail then follows several ridges offering stunning views of the crater and the sulfur vents. With an omnipresent volcanic atmosphere, I find this trail to be one of the best hikes in Hokkaido.

The descent is via a more direct and less difficult route. For hikers wishing to reduce the difficulty, a round trip via this path is an excellent alternative.

Note that three days after my passage in June 2026, the volcanic alert level was raised, resulting in access restrictions on several trails.

Fukiage Onsen

After the effort, the reward!

Just a few minutes’ drive from the trailhead is Fukiage Onsen, a free rotenburo particularly popular with hikers. An ideal stop to soothe your legs after this long day in the mountains.

Shirogane Blue Pond

I then made a detour to the famous Shirogane Blue Pond, known for having been used by Apple as a wallpaper on some Mac models in the early 2010s.

Even though the photos of the site are magnificent, the visit left me with a mixed impression. The place is very developed, extremely touristy, and its artificial character is quite visible. In my eyes, the detour is therefore not essential given all that the region has to offer.

The countryside of Furano and Biei

I ended the day enjoying the sunset at Farm Tomita, whose flower fields are known throughout Japan. During my visit, the bloom was just beginning, but the visit remained very pleasant thanks to the limited crowds in the late afternoon. Contrary to what Google Maps might suggest, the site does not close in the evening.

The next morning, I took more time to explore the small rural roads of the region, notably Panorama Road and Patchwork Road.

More than a list of specific points of interest, it’s the atmosphere of the countryside that gives this region its charm. My best advice is ultimately to take the car and let yourself be carried along the roads at random.

I returned the car in Asahikawa late in the morning.

Where to stay in the Furano region?

If you are looking for accommodation in the area, I highly recommend 宿 大都会.

I received one of the best welcomes of my entire trip to Japan here. The owner speaks English, seems passionate about hiking, and readily takes the time to chat with his visitors.

With only three rooms, the establishment offers a particularly friendly atmosphere. The rural environment also allows you to enjoy a magnificent starry sky on clear nights.

The accommodation is available on Booking and Airbnb.

Road north

I finally spent the afternoon heading up to Wakkanai, Japan’s northernmost city, where the proximity to Russia is felt.

My initial goal was to get directly to Rishiri the same day, but the ferry schedules made the operation a bit too ambitious. A stop in Wakkanai was therefore natural.

I spent the night at Guest House Moshiripa, probably the most budget-friendly accommodation in town, but I don’t necessarily recommend it. If you are arriving here, I would try to get directly to Rishiri.

Day 19 – Rebun

29.31km – 1006m ascent and 1006m descent – difficulty 6/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

Still relatively unknown to international tourists, Rebun is nonetheless a very popular destination for the Japanese. It must be said that this small island has serious arguments: cliffs plunging into the sea, wildflowers, spectacular coastal trails, and permanent views of the almost perfect cone of Mount Rishiri.

Unable to find accommodation at a reasonable price, I did a stopover on Rebun from Wakkanai before heading to Rishiri in the evening. I had considered renting a motorcycle to explore the island more freely, but not having been able to contact the rental company in advance, I finally decided to cross most of it on foot. In retrospect, I don’t regret this choice, as the roads didn’t seem very interesting from the bus.

After dropping my bag in the ferry terminal lockers, I took a bus to the north of the island before stringing together three routes offered by the tourist office.

The trails of northern Rebun

The first route, the Hachi Jikan course, located in the northern part of the island, is probably the one that impressed me the least. A large part of the route crosses relatively closed areas, and the viewpoints remain limited.

The passage on the beach is more original but doesn’t really constitute a trail. Unfortunately, we observe a significant amount of waste washed up by the sea.

Cliffs of the southern part of the island

The landscapes become significantly more interesting as you progress south.

The second route, the Rebun Rindou course, becomes more interesting. However, it is truly the third route, the Momoiwa Tenboudai course, that constitutes, in my opinion, the highlight of Rebun.

Easier, more accessible, and also more frequented, it runs alongside some of the island’s most beautiful landscapes with constant panoramas of the sea and Rishiri when the weather is favorable.

If you only have one day on site or if the physical aspect is not your priority, I clearly recommend concentrating your time on this southern part of the island.

A loop of about 9 kilometers from the ferry terminal allows you to do this last route before taking the boat back to Rishiri at the end of the day.

Days 20 & 21 – Rishiri

Dominated by the majestic Mount Rishiri, the island of Rishiri is one of the most beautiful hiking destinations in northern Hokkaido.

Aware that the weather is often capricious in this region, I had booked three nights on the island to maximize my chances of having a window of good weather for the ascent.

Island tour by bike

61km – 556m ascent and 556m descent – GPX link⁽¹⁾

My first day was unfortunately very cloudy, and the summit quickly disappeared into the mist.

I therefore decided to rent a bicycle to cycle around the island.

The route alternates between quiet roads and cycle paths. It allows you to discover several lakes, a few small temples, a sea urchin and starfish farm, as well as kelp and other seaweed drying areas, without forgetting several small museums that I didn’t visit.

Although this walk was not a favorite, it remains a pleasant way to discover the island when conditions do not allow for hiking.

Ascent of Mount Rishiri

15.50km – 1690m ascent and 1690m descent – difficulty 6/10⁽²⁾ – GPX link⁽¹⁾

The next day, the forecast finally improved.

At dawn, the hostel’s shuttle dropped me off at the start of the ascent of Mount Rishiri, ranked among the 100 most beautiful mountains in Japan and considered one of the best hikes in Hokkaido.

Even before starting to walk, visitors are invited to thoroughly clean their shoes to avoid the introduction of outside species that could disrupt the island’s fragile ecosystem.

The trail is generally in good condition, although some sections are eroded and sometimes dizzying. However, the main difficulty remains the significant elevation gain.

I had some fears regarding the panoramas, imagining that a relatively isolated island would offer monotonous landscapes. The reality is quite different.

As you climb, the almost perfect silhouette of the volcano gradually reveals itself while the ocean occupies the horizon in all directions. From the summit, the 360-degree view is spectacular.

This ascent is without hesitation among my favorite hikes of the trip and fully deserves its place among the best hikes in Hokkaido.

After the descent, a short detour allows you to reach Mount Pon. This small easy hike offers beautiful views of Mount Rishiri and is a pleasant addition if you still have some energy left. That said, it remains optional after the effort of the main ascent.

Rishirifuji Onsen

Upon returning from the hike, Rishirifuji Onsen opens its doors from noon.

Between sauna, indoor baths, and outdoor baths, it’s the ideal place to recover after the ascent of the volcano.

Having finished relatively early, I could theoretically have left the island that same day to head back to Sapporo. I preferred to take my time and enjoy one last day on site before continuing my journey.

Accommodation on Rishiri

I stayed at Rishiri Greenhill Hostel, an address I recommend without hesitation.

It seems to be one of the few affordable options on Rishiri, and the establishment is often booked well in advance. I even adjusted my dates according to its availability, so I strongly advise booking early.

The establishment is simple but well-maintained, with welcoming staff and a pleasant communal kitchen. The hostel also offers several very practical services, including shuttles to and from the ferry, transport to the start of the Mount Rishiri hike, and bicycle rental.

For hikers wishing to explore the island without a car, this is probably one of the best accommodation options.

My ranking of the hikes in Hokkaido + GPX

I have grouped the hikes I did in Hokkaido in ascending order of difficulty and, within each category, according to my personal preferences, to help you quickly identify the routes best suited to your level and desires.

Easy (level 1 to 3)

Trek + GPX link(1)	Description	Distance / Elevation gain	Difficulty(2)	My rating
Tsutsujigahara & Mount Io	Discovery of a fascinating active volcanic landscape and the different types of vegetation surrounding it → detailed info	6.1km / 80m	1/10	8/10
Mount Usu	Impressive active volcano, beautiful panoramas over Lake Toya and the legacy of the last eruption’s damage → detailed info	15.5km / 388m	3/10	8/10
Wakoto Peninsula	Between lake, forest, fumaroles, and hot springs → detailed info	3.2km / 83m	1/10	7/10
Lake Onneto	Magnificent lake and unique thermal waterfall → detailed info	6.8km / 119m	1/10	7/10
Onuma	Islets of Onuma Park offering beautiful views of Mount Komagatake. → detailed info	5.5km / 31m	1/10	6/10
Mount Moiwa	Panoramic view over Sapporo → detailed info	5.9km / 506m	3/10	6/10
Nakajima	Beautiful forests and turquoise waters → detailed info	8.5km / 190m	3/10	5/10
Furepe Waterfall	Spectacular waterfall (but only half visible) → detailed info	3.1km / 78m	1/10	5/10
Mount Eirei	Panorama over the Shiretoko peninsula → detailed info	5.5km / 465m	3/10	5/10
Tatni Trail	Short walk through various ecosystems but offering few views → detailed info	2.8km / 149m	2/10	3/10
Bokke (Mud Volcano)	Bubbling mud pots → detailed info	1.6km / 16m	1/10	3/10

Moderate (level 4 to 6)

Trek + GPX(1)	Description	Distance / Elevation gain	Difficulty(2)	My rating
Mount Tarumae & Fuppushi	Combination of two volcanic peaks, including an active one with incredible geology → detailed info	13.2km / 997m	6/10	10/10
Rebun	Crossing the island of Rebun between beaches, cliffs, and wildflowers. Possibility of doing only the easy southern part, which is the most beautiful → detailed info	29.3km / 1006m	6/10	9/10
Mount Rishiri & Mount Pon	Emblematic ascent of the Rishiri volcano with 360° views over this almost perfect cone → detailed info	15.5km / 1690m	6/10	9/10
Hakodate	Between heritage and nature with superb views over Hakodate and its bay → detailed info	16.8km / 533m	4/10	8/10
Lake Mashu & Mount Kamui	Superb viewpoints over one of Japan’s most beautiful lakes and an imposing crater → detailed info	14.7km / 645m	4/10	8/10
Mount Oakan	Magnificent ponds and open views over the region from the summit → detailed info	12.1km / 1023m	5/10	6/10

Difficult (level 7 to 10)

Trek + GPX(1)	Description	Distance / Elevation gain	Difficulty(2)	My rating
Mount Tokachi	Spectacular, highly active volcanic summit with plenty of open views from the ridge trails → detailed info	18.8km / 1506m	9/10	10/10
Mount Asahi	The highest point on the island, combining snowfields, fumaroles, and panoramic views → detailed info	14.0km / 1220m	7/10	9/10
Mount Yotei	Iconic summit and beautiful crater with 360° views → detailed info	20.1km / 1787m	8/10	7/10

Notes

⁽¹⁾The GPX tracks mentioned in this article are provided for reference only. They should not under any circumstances be followed as an official guide or a safe route. Mountain conditions are constantly changing and can make a route unsuitable or dangerous.

⁽²⁾These ratings reflect my personal experience and the conditions encountered during my hikes, in June and in good weather, with occasional snowfields. Difficulty may however vary depending on the season and weather. If you don’t yet know your level, I recommend starting with a few level 1, 2, or even 3 hikes to gauge yourself before tackling more demanding routes. To understand my evaluation method in detail, check out my article Hiking difficulty scale.

Practical tips

Budget

I spent about 13,500 ¥ per day as detailed below.

Expense item	Quantity	Unit price	Approx. cost
Accommodation	28 nights	~5,000 ¥	140,000 ¥
Car rental	8 days	~7,500 ¥	~60,000 ¥
Gasoline	60 liters	~165 ¥	~10,000 ¥
Public transport and ferries			~55,000 ¥
Orca cruise	1 cruise	~10,000 ¥	~10,000 ¥
Food	28 days	~3,000 ¥	~84,000 ¥
Museums, onsens, and visits			~20,000 ¥
Total			~379,000 ¥

This budget was achieved by sleeping in dormitories or simple, economical private rooms. I also avoided all toll roads, which allowed me to reduce costs while discovering more of the countryside. On Hokkaido, roads are generally smooth, and this strategy never made me feel like I was losing much time.

Duration

One week is enough to discover part of Hokkaido and do a few nice hikes. However, to fully enjoy the island and discover several of the best hikes in Hokkaido, I recommend at least three weeks.

Even after nearly a month on site, I felt like I had only explored a part of what the island has to offer.

Precautions to take

Several of the hikes in Hokkaido involve risks related to bears, volcanoes, or snow early in the season. I advise systematically trying to stop by a tourist information center to get the latest information. The more difficult routes often have a register at the trailhead where you can indicate the departure and arrival times as well as the intended route.

Snow

I did this trip in June, and snow was still present on several trails starting at 1,000 meters in altitude, especially on north-facing slopes. Small crampons, trekking poles, and gloves are highly recommended.

Bears

Hokkaido bears are well present on most hikes. Every year, several incidents are reported.

The most common precautions are:

• Make noise regularly to signal your presence (bell, radio, etc.);
• Avoid leaving food or trash (for you and for the next hikers);
• Hike in a group whenever possible;
• Be particularly cautious in the presence of cubs, as mothers are known to be particularly aggressive in protecting their young;
• Favor the middle of the day;
• Carry bear spray and know how to use it;
• The Kumamap website lists recent bear sightings in several Japanese prefectures.

Volcano

Several of these hikes take place on active volcanoes. Before any hike, it is advisable to check the alerts and recommendations published by the Japan Meteorological Agency.

Recommended season

For hiking enthusiasts, the best time to visit Hokkaido is from June to October.

June offers long days, still moderate crowds, and very green landscapes. Snowfields may however remain on some of the best hikes in Hokkaido until early July.

July and August correspond to the high season with the opening of most trails and the blooming of the flower fields in Furano and Biei.

September is often considered one of the best compromises thanks to pleasant weather, lower crowds, and excellent walking conditions.

October allows you to admire the autumn colors, particularly spectacular in the Daisetsuzan mountain range, but some tourist infrastructures then begin to reduce their hours.

Transportation

I personally combined public transport and car rental for eight days. This solution seemed to me the best compromise to easily access several of the best hikes in Hokkaido, notably around Shiretoko, Akan Mashu, Tarumae, and Tokachi.

A large part of this itinerary is doable by public transport.

Google Maps proved reliable for almost all my journeys. The main exceptions concerned ferries to Hakodate, Rebun, and Rishiri, for which I recommend checking the official websites to verify schedules and prices.

Some buses require prior reservation, notably between Toya and Sapporo as explained here.

Eastern Hokkaido and Shikotsu seemed more complicated to me, so I advise renting a car there. If traveling as a pair, the cost of the car probably competes with that of public transport.