This classic northern Laos itinerary allows you to travel from Thailand to China in one week. Between spectacular nature and religious traditions, Laos offers a more authentic face than its Thai neighbor, even though tourism is increasingly present. It will take you from the capital Vientiane to the karst landscapes of Vang Vieng, then to the former cultural capital of Luang Prabang, ending in the wilder region of Nong Khiaw. For a quick overview of the country, this itinerary is ideal, but I nevertheless recommend taking more time to venture into less touristy rural areas.
Overview
Day by day itinerary
DAY 1 – Vientiane
Let’s be honest, if you only have ten days, Vientiane is probably not an essential stop for discovering northern Laos. Its cultural interest is limited, but it can serve as a pleasant gateway. We made a one-day stop there as it was on our way. We took the opportunity to visit the COPE Visitor Center. This small center is one of the many small museums that help understand Laos’s recent history, the most bombed country in the world. It raises awareness about the scourge of UXO (unexploded ordnance), these small bombs that make vast areas dangerous. The visit is free, but a donation is appreciated.
We also strolled through the textile museum, more of a workshop-boutique than a classic museum. If you’re not passionate, I wouldn’t make it a priority given its location away from the center. We ended our visit at the Wat Si Saket temple, a beautiful example of Buddhist architecture.
For a first introduction to Lao cuisine, don’t miss Vegan Center Café for an excellent all-you-can-eat buffet (90,000 kip), offering a large assortment of local specialties.
DAY 2 & 3 – Vang Vieng
We continue this discovery of Laos by taking a train north. This train, built by China, allows you to reach Vang Vieng quickly and comfortably. For reservations, I share my tips in the Trains section.
My favorite places
If the town of Vang Vieng lacks charm, its surroundings more than make up for it. I recommend renting a motorbike (if you are comfortable and have a license) and going on an adventure. The karst formations emerging from the jungle offer an incredible playground. There are several tourist points of interest, but I recommend the following:
- Blue Lagoon 3: after a quick dip in the artificial lagoon, continue beyond it. The path is steep, but leads you to a cave where ladders allow you to descend to a natural pool. Bring a headlamp with enough battery, as chances are you’ll be alone, which makes the exploration magical. The ladders are a bit wobbly and the terrain slippery, so wear good shoes. Allow at least one hour round trip. Not far away, a viewpoint in an open cave offers a nice panorama over the rice fields.
- Pha Ngern Viewpoint: a slightly more challenging hike but rewarded with a beautiful panorama from the top. A lower viewpoint offers a similar panorama if you want to save your energy. The path to the summit is fairly clear, however if you are more comfortable with a GPX track, here it is (one way: 2.12km, positive elevation: 474m, negative elevation: 10m).
- Kaeng Nyui Waterfall: very well developed, we were there early and almost alone.
We stayed at Win Hotel, clean and quiet with very friendly and helpful staff.
Hot air balloon flights
Hot air balloon flights also seem very popular. When we were there, the weather conditions did not allow flying. If you want to take a flight, read the Google reviews carefully because several agencies seemed not great. Some short flights stay close to the town while longer flights go over the mountains. The agency Above Laos seems to be the most reputable despite its prices, but you need to book well in advance.
DAY 4 & 5 – Luang Prabang
Again on the train, we continue our route north to the former capital Luang Prabang. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is the only town on the trip that exudes true charm with its temples and spiritual atmosphere. I recommend spending at least two days there.
My visit recommendations
- Tak Bat: this dawn almsgiving ceremony to the monks is a sacred tradition. To avoid the “tourist circus” aspect of the main street, we followed the locals’ advice. We sat in a small adjacent street where several elderly ladies were waiting on their stools, a fairly authentic experience. The time varies between 5:30 am and 7:00 am depending on the season, ask your hotel. If you’re up, take the opportunity to discover the morning market.
- Sunset: They are magnificent on the Mekong, and I went there every evening. Several options are available:
- Phou Si hill (very touristy);
- The Mekong riverbanks west of the Nam Khan where several cafes allow you to sit. There are also several boats that depart from there.
- The Mekong riverbanks east of the Nam Khan, more peaceful but away from the center (motorbike or taxi recommended).
- Temples: Wat Xiengthong seemed the most beautiful to me (but the most touristy). In any case, as you walk around, you will discover many others.
- Kuang Si Waterfall: very beautiful but very touristy. Fortunately, the site is large enough to absorb the crowds. For more adventure, we were advised to get dropped off at Ban Long to walk 9 km to the waterfall. The trail seems clear on the maps.me app. Lacking time, we went by motorbike, with a lunch break at Nakhoun Café, facing the rice fields, which I recommend more for the location than the food.
Luang Prabang is a fairly noisy city, so when choosing a hotel, prefer dead ends or small streets. We loved Baan Pila and La petite Maison.
DAY 6 & 7 – Nong Khiaw & Mong Ngoi
Nong Khiaw
To start venturing into more rural areas (but still touristy), a minivan took us to Nong Khiaw. The bumpy road is a change from the comfort of the train. The village itself is not very beautiful, but the surrounding nature, with the Nam Ou River, is magnificent. I recommend visiting the following:
- Viewpoints: ideal for sunrise or sunset over the river from one of the many viewpoints. For my part, I went to these:
- Phadeng Peak: the most accessible and most touristy but perfect for sunset because the descent is quite quick, allowing you to avoid walking in the dark. The GPX track is available here (one way: 0.66km, positive elevation: 196m, negative elevation: 0m).
- Pha Kao viewpoint: a more challenging hike and significantly less crowded. A lower viewpoint is also accessible but I didn’t go there. The GPX track is available here (one way: 2.93km, positive elevation: 749m, negative elevation: 3m).
- Pha Noi Cave (New Nong Khiaw Cave): accessible from the Eco Farm Hostel, a small trail leads to this magnificent small cave, artificially lit. Along the way, don’t miss the other lit cave with a natural skylight. Despite the lighting, a flashlight is still useful.
- Ban Man Da Cave: a cave where locals lived during the bombing years. The museum is nicely decorated with bomb remnants even though the explanations are limited. A bit off the beaten track, it’s better to go by motorbike or taxi.
We stayed at Sook Village, a haven of peace with bungalows in a lush garden, a bit outside the city. For more autonomy, we rented an electric scooter for 150,000 kip per 24 hours.
Mong Ngoi
We pushed on to the Mong Ngoi area via an organized day tour. The village is again uninteresting, but the area gradually becomes wilder as you move away from Nong Khiaw and seems to offer several opportunities for beautiful hikes and discovery of remote villages. If I were to do it again, I would spend more time in this area.
This stage concludes this northern Laos trip. From there, I return to Luang Prabang to take a train to Xishuangbanna in China and continue my journey.
Practical tips
Budget
Laos is one of the cheapest countries in Southeast Asia. Staying in more than decent hotels (double room) and eating without restraint, our average budget was about 45 euros per person per day. Tight budgets can probably halve that amount.
What to wear
The climate in northern Laos is hot, but you will notice that locals cover their shoulders and often wear trousers. Out of respect, I advise you, at least when visiting temples, to wear clothing that covers shoulders and knees.
Duration
We had 10 days and took our time to complete this northern Laos itinerary, but it is entirely doable in one week. However, it only offers a small glimpse of the country, and that glimpse made me want to return and spend a few weeks there.
The danger of UXO (bombies)
As mentioned, Laos is the most bombed country in the world. Millions of unexploded “bombies” (cluster munitions) still contaminate the ground. It is imperative to always stay on marked paths, whether hiking, in rice fields, or in the forest. Never venture off the beaten track.
Recommended season
The best time for this trip in northern Laos is the dry and cool season, namely from November to March. Temperatures are pleasant (even though we were hot) and road conditions are good (even though the roads are in very poor condition).
Trains
The train is by far the most comfortable means of transport. The new line connects Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang before crossing the border to China. I bought all my tickets on the official “LCR Ticket” app without any issues.
To reach Laos from Thailand, failing to get direct tickets between Bangkok and Vientiane, we took the night train from Bangkok to Nong Khai. Advance booking is advised, especially for 1st class where we were only two in a compartment. Note that we were unable to book tickets on the official website and used baolau.com which took a lower commission than 12go.asia. From Nong Khai, buses cross the Friendship Bridge 1 to enter Laos. Once through the second customs, buses connect the border to Vientiane quite easily.
Where to go after Laos?
Laos is connected by train to China and Thailand, for which I have written the following articles:
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